When I see a spot brewing, no matter at what stage I first notice it, I can’t do anything else until that bad boy has been thoroughly picked, squeezed, prodded and inevitably made five to 10 times worse than if I had just left it alone from the outset.
I earn a crust writing about beauty products (amongst other things) and so spend a lot of time talking to dermatologists and skincare experts who all unanimously agree that this is not the best course of action. And yet, the cycle continues.
There are actually some spots that do require extraction in order to accelerate the healing process. On a Zoom call in the middle of lockdown, I had the opportunity to discuss this with Dr Pimple Popper herself, American dermatologist Sandra Lee MD who confirmed this very fact.
Some blemishes are made to be busted, and I’m only too happy to oblige - but the right tools are essential to achieve that feeling of satisfaction, rather than regret.
You don’t need to be fans of the viral videos of Pompeii-level of their eruptions to partake. Even the squeamish can opt for the likes of pore vacuuming or good chemical exfoliants in order to tackle blackheads without exacerbating the situation or leaving hard-to-heal scars.
There are many types of blackhead removing products, from the suctioning vacuums mentioned above, to pore strips and exfoliating serums containing blemish busting ingredients like salicylic acid. We consulted Dr Natalie Geary, Founder of the Light Touch Clinic to find out more.
First and foremost, what are blackheads?
“Blackheads are commonly found on and around the face - typically on the nose, and are made up of oxidised melanin which is why they appear dark. These are also known as comedones which are pores that have been blocked with oils, dead skin and bacteria.”
What causes blackheads?
“As dead skin cells and oil collect in the opening to the skin follicle, it produces a bump called a comedo. Blackheads form when the skin over the bump opens and is exposed to the air, which causes it to oxidise and look black.
“Melanin is produced in our skin and that is what gives our hair and skin its colour. For example when we tan, this is our melanin production working overtime to protect our cells against the UV and gives us that tanned glow - and the same happens with blackheads. When melanin is exposed to the air, it oxidises and turns dark protecting the nucleus of the cell. Therefore, blackheads are not dirty, so harsh scrubbing and or over cleaning them does not make much of a difference, it is extraction we need to focus on to minimise them.”
What is the difference between blackheads vs whiteheads?
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“Blackheads and whiteheads are types of non-inflammatory acne that form around the same places with similar sizes. The differences between the two are that whiteheads are more raised as the trapped oils and bacteria form underneath the skin, whereas the bacteria that turns into blackheads have been oxidised around the pores.”
How do you get rid of them?
“It is important to avoid harsh scrubs but a gentle exfoliator and cleanser will remove the dead skin cells that clog your pores. It is normal for blackheads to keep coming back but they can be reduced for longer periods of time with the right tools such as pore strips, vacuums and microdermabrasion. Use products that have been specifically formulated to not clog pores and avoid buildup.”
How do you prevent them from coming back?
“It is difficult to eliminate blackheads completely but there are measures you can take to minimise their impact. For example removing makeup in the evenings, doing regular gentle exfoliators typically once a week and washing your face once or twice a day depending on your skin type. It is also wise to avoid products with alcohol and oil-based skin care. Hydro facials are also recommended as they include exfoliating and extracting the blackheads.”
Is it ever ok to squeeze them?
“It is always recommended to avoid squeezing and picking blackheads as it will irritate the skin. It can also build more bacteria or become infected if done with your nails which may contain dirt or other bacteria. As well as irritating the skin, popping blackheads by hand could potentially enlarge the pores in the future. If you wish to extract blackheads and any type of spots it is advised to do so at a professional clinic that have the necessary tools for extraction that will minimise any damage to your skin.”
What methods are available to remove blackheads?
“Pore strip: These strips are often made with a type of cloth and adhesive to pull out dead skin and clogged pores. If your skin is sensitive often pore strips can be too harsh for your face and create redness or irritation.
Pore vacuums: pore vacuums are used to suction out the bacteria and oils from your pores which can be done at home. It is important to have the vacuum on the right setting for your skin as there could be possible side effects such as bruising.
Microdermabrasion: Microdermabrasion uses gentle crystals that help remove the surface of the blackheads which is followed by a vacuum eliminating the rest of the imperfections and blemishes. It is also used to speed up cell renewal in the process.
It’s important to learn how to use these tool properly, because if used incorrectly, it can cause permanent skin damage and scarring. You must also understand how to properly prep the skin before doing these sorts of extractions such as loosening the pores with warm water and washing your face properly beforehand.”
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